Words by Emma Dixon-Cahn and Sara Buzzell

North of the 51st parallel, between Manic-5 and Fermont, where even cell signals fail to reach, stand the Groulx Mountains. On one side, they border the Manicouagan reservoir, a lake carved out by a meteorite impact over 200 million years ago and aptly nicknamed the ‘Eye of Quebec’ for its striking circular shape. On the other, they give way to the 30-some peaks of the Uapishka territory, “white peaks” in Innu-aimun, a nod to the snow that covers this wild country nine months out of the year. Our destination: Uapishka Station, at kilometre 335, almost twelve hours from Montreal. No signposts to guide us, just the occasional mileage marker.

I'm here with Bianca Petri, who founded her company Peak Secourisme in 2022, with the aim of making outdoor safety information more accessible. As a nurse, Bianca's mission is to equip outdoor enthusiasts to practice their activities responsibly. For her, it's important to know that just because you're in Quebec and not the Alps, it doesn't mean you don't have precautions to take. In fact, that's why she's accompanying me to the Groulx Mountains; without a network or infrastructure nearby, rescues are arduous. Preparation is an absolute must. This means planning our route properly, knowing the terrain and distances in advance, having an effective communication system like a satellite phone or SOS GPS transmitter (never rely solely on your smartphone!), first-aid skills, and an utter respect for the elements. 

We venture out into the vastness of the territory, towards Uapishka Station. Located on the banks of the Manicouagan reservoir, the station welcomes adventurers and workers in need of a temporary home base. We sleep in the guides’ camp, a refuge warmed by a wood stove, under the silent gaze of L’Œil du Québec. The next morning, we have to start preparing for our expedition.

“When you asked me to come here, I was pretty nervous,” admits Bianca. Even if you're an experienced hiker, outdoor safety training is crucial for an expedition like ours. It gives you the tools to assess risks, manage emergency situations, and avoid mistakes that can be fatal.” And to learn more about this wilderness, we've arranged to meet local expert Guy Boudreau at the 365 km mark.

Guy settled at the foot of the Groulx Mountains over fifteen years ago, in a camp he built with his own hands. He is self-sufficient, drawing his electricity from a system of solar panels and an emergency generator, and knows the region like no one else. His company Aventure Uapishka organizes tours of the region along two axes: North-South, the classic 50-km route, and East-West, the more demanding 90-km version, which begins near a lake and involves a seaplane drop-off. Guy accompanies these expeditions and gives lectures on the preparation required for them. 

As we sit around maps of the region, we talk to him about our upcoming itinerary. “Here, it can take up to 48 hours to be rescued if something happens, and you need to be equipped to call for help,” Guy points out. The trails are not marked, so you have to know your way around with a map and a compass.” In his training courses, the guide also talks about the physical fitness required. You need to be in excellent shape, to have trained yourself to climb and descend by working on your endurance (ideally in the wild rather than solely at the gym), and to know how to manage the heavy weight of a backpack. But it's also a question of mental aptitude: You have to be prepared for solitude and the unexpected, learn to manage stress and recognize your limits. 

Every year, in the Groulx Mountains just like elsewhere, evacuations could be avoided with proper preparation. For instance, Bianca tells me about another trip where a hiker in her group suffered a serious sprain. This injury might seem trivial downtown, but in the middle of nowhere, it's serious. “We had to adapt our route plan in a hurry, stabilize him and transport him in the best possible conditions. What really impressed me was how important it was to stay calm, communicate clearly and help each other. Thanks to our medical knowledge, we were able to stabilize the limb and prevent deterioration (a circulation problem, for example).”  Without this basic understanding, the situation could have taken a completely different turn. 

Climbing the Provencher massif
Time to put into practice what we've learned. We leave our camp at dawn. In our bags, Bianca's essentials: tent, winter sleeping bags, change of clothes, freeze-dried meals, snacks, water filter, stove, bear repellent, compass, map, first-aid kits, headlamps and walking sticks—very useful for reducing stress on joints in uneven terrain. Bianca carries her Garmin InReach GPS, in which she recorded our itinerary and which allows us to be followed remotely by our loved ones. “Before you set off, make sure you give your routes and hiking schedule to people you trust,” she reminds us. The muddy trails are already covered in snow; good thing Guy had warned us to wear waterproof boots. 

We have 4.1 km to cover before reaching Castor Lake, where we set up camp. We pass by Jacques' camp, one of the pioneers of the Groulx Mountains, who helped popularize them among Quebec adventurers. After a slight climb, windows through the trees reveal a grandiose landscape.  The Manicouagan Reservoir, which until then had only been seen from the ground, stretches out before our eyes. A good two-hour hike brings us to a plateau between the trees, just the place to set up camp for the night. We pitch our tent here before continuing our expedition towards the Provencher massif, with its panoramic view of the surrounding peaks. 

At the summit, the conifers give way to taiga. But silence makes way for no one. The crevices of the rocky peaks are filled with immaculate snow, constantly blown by the wind. We contemplate the immensity, the Great North seemingly just around the corner, and the sun beginning its descent towards the horizon. After sweating our way up, the cold of altitude soon sends shivers down our spines. Hypothermia is an insidious danger. Many underestimate the combined effects of cold and humidity, and even if the weather was mild not so long ago, we mustn't linger. It's time to get back down. 

Back at camp. In the glow of the fire, the cold is gone. The crackle of embers accompanies our conversations until we fall asleep. Bianca heats up the water so we can fill our bottles, which become hot water bottles for the night. Slipped into our sleeping bags, they'll take our minds off the snow all around us. Our trek is drawing to a close, but this is certainly not my last expedition of this kind.

Here, you're alone in the world, left to your own devices. Talking to industry professionals made me realize that I wasn't necessarily aware of all the preparation and knowledge required to venture so far into the wild. The growing popularity of the Groulx Mountains with Quebec's booming outdoor scene means that others will also need to have this awareness before setting out to discover the region. If the unknown intrigues, it also reminds us of the importance of keeping our guard up. For Bianca, it's obvious: “The mountains are unforgiving, and ego has no place here; what counts is helping each other, being cautious, and constant communication. Even among experienced adventurers, humility is essential.”